Charr is particularly suitable for a “papillote” preparation, a little piscinepackage of parchment paper roasted a few minutes, then opened at eachplate for both heady steam and tasty treat. Even more tasties come by way of a wine selection that is close to being all-encompassing: a dry crisp white; a sparkling pink; and a medium-bodied, lean red. Charr is the kind of fish — rich, succulent, unctuous, flavors on all fours — that appeals to nearly any kind of wine, as long as that wine has a good backbone of acidity and freshness. These three do. HERE’S WHAT YOU NEED: • 1 large square (15″x15″) parchment paper • 1 filet Niceland arctic charr, skin-on (on special this month from our friends next door at Marczyk Fine Foods) • 2-3 very thin slices lemon • 1 sprig fresh thyme • Salt and pepper to taste • 2 small pats butter HERE’S WHAT YOU DO: Makes 1 For each papillote, fold in half the square of parchment paper, then open back up, seam side down. Along and on one side of the seam, place the lemon slices, then a filet of char skin side down, and along the top of the fish, the sprig of fresh thyme, a pinch of salt and pepper, and the butter. Fold the paper back over itself, then seal the edge into tight narrow folds,ends twisted, then tucked under to make a leak-proof packet. Place on a rimmed baking sheet and roast at 400 degrees for 12 minutes. If you wish to add any vegetables to the packets (such as baby spinach, julienned leeks or carrots, asparagus, cherry tomatoes), do so of course, but add 2-3 minutes cooking time. AND THE WINES! Maison Neuve Sauvignon Blanc Bordeaux — France Dry and full-bodied, its finish is long and mellow with just a hint of citrus. F&F PRICE: $11.99/btl (reg $13.99/btl) Jean Vullien Brut Rosé — Savoie, France A blend of Gamay ad Mondeuse. Gorgeous nose of red fruit and spice. Explosive in the mouth with a rich creamy mousse. F&F PRICE: $17.99/btl (reg: $22.99/btl) Jean Vullien Mondeuse — Savoie, France Made 100% from a grape called Mondeuse. Notes of sour cherries, damson plums, and an invigorating hint of black pepper. F&F PRICE: $17.99/btl (reg: $19.99/btl) |